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Pittsburgh magazine

Hyeholde's Chilean Sea Bass
25 BEST RESTAURANTS DELICIOUS WINNERS
By JENNIFER PAPALE RIGNANI
PhotoGRAPHY BY LAURA PETRILLA


Hyeholde's Chilean sea bass: pan-fried polenta, charred tomatillos and yellow-pepper coulis.

Being the best isn't a one-dimensional moniker. Lance Armstrong isn't the best just for his record seven Tour de France wins. Along with pushing the pedals fastest are his assets of perseverance, personality and charity. An Oscar-winning movie doesn't take home the statue just because of the actors on screen, but also for its music, screenplay and cinematography. Same goes for food.

When we talk about the Best Restaurants of 2006, we're not just talking who makes the best seared sea scallops with fufu and Key lime chili mojo here (though that would be Kaya). There's a mood, a certain chord that is struck with diners like a Yo-Yo Ma performance that synthesizes cello, player and audience. A chef must be simpatico with his staff and that staff must provide superb service to its customers. Diners must convene with not just the food on the plate, but also with the conversations that sprinkle about the room, the linens on the table and the colors on the walls.

That's why this year's incredibly diverse list of 25 Best Restaurants, chosen by Pittsburgh magazine's Restaurant Review Panel, ranges from the homey, close-knit space at Tessaro's for burgers to the exquisite foie gras and Frenchness of Lautrec. Read on with pen and phone poised to make a reservation at one or all of these delicious winners.


Aqueous
Chef de Cuisine David Racicot
Nemacolin Woodlands Resort
150 Falling Rock Blvd.
Wharton Township, near Farmington
Fayette County
800/422-2736

Sure the food's American and the place was inspired by the consummate American architect Frank Lloyd Wright, but like Wright's off-beat fusion of outside and inside, nature and the manufactured, Aqueous is no ordinary American restaurant. Where else can you get fish and chips made of yellow-fin tuna with avocado tartare and parsnip? From the fresh, regional ingredients to the sense of communing with nature that abounds in the spacious rooms, you know you're in for a world-class culinary experience.
Dinner for Two: Seven-course meal: $190; 12-course meal: $230
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Butter-poached lobster with vanilla creme brulee, lemon liquid ravioli and sweet peas

Bona Terra
Executive Chef and Owner Douglass Dick
908 Main St.
Sharpsburg
412/781-8210

After stepping off the truly unassuming Main Street in Sharpsburg, you'll be warmly greeted into the earth-toned belly of Bona Terra as if you've been invited to an intimate dinner party in a small bungalow. From the moment you enter this simply appointed place, you'll realize that culinary pleasure here is tied to things natural. Tables are close together, and the sounds of laughter compete with discreet, knowledgeable waiters uncorking lush bottles of BYOB wines. Don't rush; linger and share tastes of generous plates of locally grown food like fresh lamb.
Dinner for Two: $85 (BYOB)
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Anything using locally forged wild mushrooms, especially morels and chanterelles.

Cafe Allegro
Executive Chef Joseph Nolan
12th and East Carson Streets
South Side
412/481-7788

This long-standing resident of the South Side culinary community beckons patrons in through its looking-glass front window. Who wouldn't want to sit at the simple but lively bar and chat with the smart bartender? Sitting in the crisp, artwork-filled main room over dishes such as fettucine with fresh romano cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and cream with a professional service staff bustling about, the place evokes a true European bistro situated on the Riviera. Like bistros across the sea, stay and people-watch.
Dinner for Two: $75
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Grilled market selection with relsa, a combination of salsa and relish

The Cafe at the Frick
Chef Patrick Laird
7227 Reynolds St.
Point Breeze
412/371-0600

There may not be a lovelier setting for lunch in Pittsburgh. Enjoying the melt-in-your-mouth crab and zucchini cakes amid the splendor of the Clayton estate will make you feel as if you've struck it rich. Sit inside the airy little building and listen to a veritable East End "who's who" gossip, or lounge outside and let the birds and the breeze lull you on a lazy afternoon. If you're into tea, there's no place better to enjoy authentic service while inhaling the heady scent of the industrial baron's wealth and the abundant gardens on-site.
Lunch for Two: $25-$30
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Applewood smoked-beef brisket with Alabama white barbecue sauce

Cafe Zao
Chef and Owner Toni Pais
649 Penn Ave.
Downtown
412/325-7007

The high-ceilinged, urban charm of this Cultural District bistro lies in its funky, modern feel. The ice-blue and chocolate walls most definitely make you feel part of a "scene" and indeed make you hungry. Good thing too, because this Tony Pais delight will satisfy your cravings for the tastes of Portugal and Spain with a range of unique dishes. Here you're as likely to taste tamarind or saffron as you are pepper and garlic for a smooth and subtle meal that matches the cool atmosphere.
Dinner for Two: $49-$59
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Clams cataplana

Casbah
Chef Derek Stevens
Corporate Chef Bill Fuller
229 S. Highland Ave.
Shadyside
412/661-5656

If you don't find your mojo at Casbah, then there's none to be found. The sexy artwork, low lights and haute design are enough to rouse the hormones along with the palate. Many a first date has played out in the intimate dining room over a great bottle of pinot noir and a plate of off-the-tree olives and off-the-boat cheeses. Or, you may choose to sit under the cool front tent beneath the flattering tiny white lights and votives. Paired with the Mediterranean splendor of the entrees, Casbah should be a staple in any connoisseur's diet.
Dinner for Two: $50-$70
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Seasonal ravioli and seafood

Clifford's Rack of LambClifford's
Chef Jesse Enslen (owned by the Enslen family)
514 Upper Harmony Road
Connoquenessing Township
Butler County
724/789-9115

Clifford's rack of lamb with polenta and roasted vegetables.

No passport? No problem. The unlikely destination of Connoquenessing Township, near Evans City, will deliver you to a faraway European inn where the food is fresh, the seating is intimate and the owners and chef are family. Twin brothers John and chef Jesse Enslen, together with Jesse's wife, Nicole, travel Europe two months out of the year to bring back techniques and recipes using fresh ingredients to plate up an exquisite dining experience. Seafood is flown in twice a week from Boston and Hawaii; bread is baked fresh daily, and salad dressings are whisked on the premises. Like its French-country setting, Clifford's offers an atmosphere that's relaxed as you chat with the chef.
Dinner for Two: $50-$75
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Rack of lamb

Dish Osteria and Bar
Chef Michele Savoia
128 S. 17th St.
South Side
412/390-2012

It's the perfect place for happy hour on a summer day. Not because you can stand outside, but because inside at the sleek bar there's so much shedding of worries that you have to step over jackets, ties and briefcases to order your drink. There's something about the front of Dish that draws in friends and lovers to inhale the aroma of rustic Italian food simmering in the back kitchen while waiting for a table. No matter if the wait is long, one bite of a wild-mushroom risotto and your wine-warmed belly will forgive you.
Dinner for Two: $55-$60 (BYOB)
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Linguine ai frutti di mare

Eleven
Chef Greg Alauzen
1150 Smallman St.
Strip District
412/201-5656

If you can't get to Manhattan this weekend, go to the vastly (literally and figuratively) urbane Eleven. The huge bar and lounge area is enough to satisfy your big-city hankering for a scene and perhaps the most delicious chocolate martini in the world. As you click your good heels into the dining area, your eyes will traverse the open kitchen and the eclectic menu featuring fare such as an appetizer of apple-smoked lamb or a selection of a half-dozen American-made cheeses, including Hudson Valley camembert.
Dinner for Two: $70-$80
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Elysian Fields Farm lamb

Hyeholde Restaurant
Executive Chef Christopher O'Brien
1516 Coraopolis Heights Road
Moon Township
412/264-3116

Maybe you've celebrated a special occasion like an anniversary or have attended a wedding at this Moon Township castle. If you have, then you know Hyeholde is an experience, an event -- not just a restaurant by any stretch of the imagination. If you haven't been to Hyeholde, get there soon because it's a must experience for both foodies and romantics. Where else can you enjoy quail, pheasant or rabbit surrounded by stone walls and stained glass? You'll feel like a royal in this castle with exquisite service and preparation.
Dinner for Two: $130
Chef's Favorite Dish to Make: Summerfield Farm rack of lamb with stewed lentils and wild mushrooms.

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